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Pai is a small, easy-going town nestled amongst the lush mountains of northern Thailand’s Mae Hong Son Province.
The 3 hour (130km) drive from Chiang Mai winds around 762 notorious sharp curves and is sure to be a fun ride not ideal for the faint-hearted. On your eventual arrival you’ll feel like you’ve got all the time in the world to kick back, relax and take a breather from your travels in this super chilled out town. It’s not uncommon for people travelling to Pai for a couple of nights to stay for much longer, also known as getting stuck in the “Pai hole”.
It has a reputation for being a late-night party town, but the region has just as much to offer any keen explorers as it does for party animals.
This guide focuses on advice for adventurous souls looking to experience the beautiful nature, secluded waterfalls, awesome hikes and panoramic viewpoints of Pai and the surrounding area. The best thing about travelling around Pai is that you’ll likely have almost every site to yourself as so many people stay in town, leaving the “touristy stuff” to you!
I spent 4 days in the area and have created this travel guide for like-minded travellers, including the Google Maps locations of each attraction.
- Country: Thailand
- Language: Thai
- Population: 3,000
- Currency: Thai baht: £1/$1 = 42/37 THB
- Visa info: As of October 1st 2022, many countries can enter Thailand for free with a 45 day visa on arrival. If your country isn’t included you can apply for a 30 or 60 day tourist visa before arriving. After that you can extend for an additional 30 days at immigration in Chiang Mai or Bangkok for around $40. You can onlt do this once before having to physically leave the country.
- SIM cards: There are a few SIM card options that are good in northern Thailand, but the best is DTAC. They have solid reception even in remote areas and offer a great package of unlimited internet at a fast speed of 15mbps for only 200THB (£4.70) per month. It can be topped up at any 7/11 store. Alternatively, buy an eSIM for Thailand here.
Where is it
Pai is located in the Mae Hong Soon Province of northern Thailand, about 130km from Chiang Mai and not far from the border with Myanmar
Check it out on the interactive map below.
How to get to Pai
- Bus: The most popular and easiest way to get to Pai is to get a minibus from Chiang Mai, which takes 3-4 hours. I booked a bus from my hotel in Chiang Mai for 200 baht, which run 5 or 6 times a day from 8:30am and include hotel-pick-up in Chiang Mai. On arrival, they’ll drop you on the walking street in Pai. Be sure to check prices on 12Go before you commit to anything.
- Motorbike: You can rent a bike in Chiang Mai for around 200 THB per day, but you’ll need something with a bit of kick to make it up to Pai with your bags! The roads are pretty sketchy, and with steep climbs and sharp turns consistent throughout the long drive it could be a trecherous journey on a cheap Scoopi bike, for example.
- Tour: Alternatively, if time is of the essence, jump on a 12 hour small group tour from Chiang Mai. Make sure to check the inclusions beforehand so you definitely hit all the spots that you’re dying to see though!
When to go
This depends on whether you like it wetter and quieter, or hotter but busier.
I visited Pai in the heart of wet season and didn’t get rained on at all. In fact, I actually got sunburnt! In the dry season the rice paddies won’t be as green, but this is the peak season because of the consistently great weather.
- Wet season: May – Oct
- Cool season: Nov – Feb (Peak season)
- Hot season: March – May
How to get around
Pai doesn’t have many different methods of transport. There are no tuktuks and Grab hasn’t made it this far either.
The best way to get around is to rent a motorbike, and if you have never learned – now is the time! I saw countless people who had clearly never driven one before and were using this as their opportunity. Sure, you should definitely keep your wits about you around so many other inexperienced riders, but I couldn’t recommend renting a motorbike here more!
I rented one from AYA Service (which is where the minibus from Chiang Mai drops you off on the Pai Walking Street) for just 100 baht per day – the cheapest rental I have ever seen!
Where to stay in Pai
Pai is a small town packed with affordable accommodation choices that are all nearby to each other.
- I stayed 2km out of town in a budget bungalow retreat called Romantic Time Mountain Resort and it was perfect if you’re after some private serenity.
- The best hostel in Pai is Revolution. Check it out on Hostelworld here.
- Browse more on Booking.com.
Expected costs
Accommodation, food, transport and activities are quite affordable in Pai.
Depending on your specific travel style, a comfortable daily budget for backpackers would be between 900-1200 THB per day which would cover visiting attractions, bike rental, eating local food and staying in budget accommodation.
How long to stay
I went to Pai for 4 days and I think that’s a perfect amount of time. It gave me ample time to see the sights as well as a day wandering around town and revisiting some spots again.
Thinking of visiting Southeast Asia soon? Don’t miss these essential guides to help planning your trip:
11 best things to do around Pai
1. Learn to ride a scooter
Now is the time to learn if you never have before!
Pai is the perfect place to get your confidence up on a bike and with all that extra freedom, the whole region is your oyster. If you’re nervous, don’t worry – you’ll go under the radar and blend in with the countless others also learning here. I saw so many people who had clearly never driven a bike before and were using this as their opportunity.
There’s no need to worry about licenses in Thailand either because as long as you have 4 limbs, a head and a passport… they’ll rent you one. Just make sure to take photos of the bike before you drive off so you can’t get stung with claims of new damage when you return it.
Anything can happen on Thai roads and it’s not always your fault. Keep your wits about you and wear a helmet even if you’re a confident rider, because there’s a lot of bad newbies out there!
I rented one from AYA Service (which is where the minibus from Chiang Mai drops you off on Pai Walking Street) for just 100 baht a day!
2. White Buddha
The White Buddha is a place in Pai that is near impossible to miss.
Overlooking the town from the eastern mountains, the Buddha is the perfect place to spend the evening watching the sunset behind the mountain tops to the west while you soak up the serene landscape from the feet of the epic statue.
Only about 1km from the centre of town, the Buddha is easily reached by bike and then by following a set of stairs for a few minutes to the top.
When I arrived in Pai the first thing I did was rent a motorbike for just 100 baht per day (£2.50) and headed straight to the White Buddha for sunset. Among the 20 or so people up there, not a single person was making a sound. It is a very respectful place with a stunning view over the valley. You simply cannot come to Pai and not visit the Buddha.
Price: Free
3. Yun Lai viewpoint
Yun Lai is one of the most popular things to do around Pai and provides one of the best views over the region, especially at sunrise.
Located 6km from town, it takes around 10-15 minutes by bike to get to the car park.
Small bikes might struggle at the last uphill push, but you’ll make it. At the top there is a large area and viewing platform overlooking Pai which can get pretty busy in the evenings and at sunrise, but there’s still plenty of space for viewing.
If you go to Lun Lai viewpoint you will drive through the Chinese village of Santichon. The village itself is not that eye-catching, but is the perfect place if you have a bit of spare time to wander around, have lunch and admire the Chinese architecture.
Price: 20 baht
4. Mo Paeng waterfall
Mo Paeng is a multi-tiered series of small waterfalls around 9km from Pai in the same direction as Yun Lai viewpoint.
The abundance of mini pools make swimming, sunbathing and relaxing in the waters accessible and enticing. This popular location is perfect for an afternoon swim or some light cliff jumping into the main pool.
Unfortunately, when I visited they were doing a lot of construction at the main waterfall pool with a digger which disturbed the tranquil vibe a bit. However, this was still easily the busiest place I visited during my stay in Pai, and when I say “busiest” I mean there were still less than 30 people here – but that felt like a lot for Pai!
Price: 100 baht
5. Pembok waterfall
Continuing on the waterfall theme, Pembok Waterfall is a secluded little waterfall in a cool canyon on the way to the Paem Bok Bamboo Bridge, 9km from Pai.
Perfect for a dip, the pool here is extremely serene and if you’re lucky like I was, you’ll have the whole place to yourself. Don’t forget a towel!
Price for National Park: 200 THB.
6. Bamboo Bridge/Trail
Boon Koh Ku So (bamboo bridge trail) is located at Bam Paem Bok village, about 11km from town and 2km further along the road from Pembok Waterfall.
From Pai you should allow about 25 minutes to get here.
The road between the waterfall and bridge does get significantly worse, but my 125cc Scoopi handled it with no worries.
Beginners beware, there are a few parts of the road that looks ominously steep and bumpy, but rest assured it is possible – just take it slow!
This simple feature was one of my personal highlights of my time in Pai, simply because the reality of the beauty here exceeded my expectations tenfold.
The bouncy bamboo trail spans about 1km before turning back the same way, passing vibrant rice paddies, farmland, forests and temples while soaking up this breathtaking landscape
It’s called a bridge, but best think of it more as a trail.
Slowly wander along at your own speed, watch local life, have an iced coffee in the shade and if you have a drone, make sure to check the place out from above! I sadly lost all my drone pics from here.
Price: 30 THB
7. Pai Canyon
Pai Canyon is a stunning area packed with high cliff drops, panoramic mountain views and narrow sandy ledges.
There are some hiking trails in the area too, including a 2 hour circuit around the dramatic landscape, but make sure to bring appropriate shoes for the uneven, slippery and sandy surface.
During my visit there were only about 10 other people here and although I didn’t visit at either sunrise or sunset, I was still expecting lots more.
Overall, the Pai Canyon is an epic place and a proper unexpected gem. Plus, if you’re keen to hike along the narrow ridges to the less crowded viewpoints, you’ll have it all to yourself.
8. Sai Ngam Hot Spring
This serene, triple-tiered hot spring is 16km from town and is best accessed by motorbike or car.
My wee bike struggled up a couple of the mountain hills but made it in the end without any problems.
The spring itself is pretty small and actually a little underwhelming if you’ve been to any others around the world, but the water can reach 34 degrees Celsius and if it isn’t too busy, I’m sure it could be very relaxing.
Personally, hot springs aren’t really my thing but I drove the 16km to check it out nonetheless because, hey, I’ll do anything for a road trip! There are a couple of small huts for some good cheap Thai food there too.
The price is 200 baht for a National Park fee, 20 baht for a motorbike and 20 baht to swim.
9. Pai Walking Street
The main street in Pai transforms from a bike-rental, cafe-heavy street in the daytime to a bustling night market every single evening.
You’ll find anything from souvenirs and clothing to cheap, authentic street food here. Prices are extremely affordable and it’s definitely worth a wander in the evening for a bargain hunt, even if it’s just to grab a bite to eat.
I bought some amazing shrimp gyoza just 50 baht.
10. Pai landsplit
This feature is located on the road to Pembok waterfall and was formed when an earthquake struck in 2008, splitting a farmer’s land in two!
A true act of mother nature, Pai landsplit was unfortunately closed when I visited, apparently due to covid when I asked a guy nearby. As it is on a farmer’s private land, I guess he can decide when he opens and closes!
Definitely worth checking out if it’s open because it looks pretty impressive.
11. Tha Pai hot spring
As I mentioned before, hot springs are not really my thing, but this is another option for anyone with extra time to spare and a desire to chill out in another beautiful bathing spot.
You’ll find the hot spring just 8km south of Pai.
My experience in Pai
I went to Pai for 4 nights in late August 2022. During my visit I stayed about 2km from the centre of town, in a bungalow in the hills fitted with a hammock, air-con and a fridge (all I really need!). This was the reason I travelled to Pai in the first place – to escape Chiang Mai after 4 intense weeks doing a TEFL course and to be alone among the mountains.
I had a bike for my entire stay and used it to explore the area.
Personally, I found the town itself quite westernised… almost too westernised actually. Maybe I didn’t look hard enough, but there were times I struggled to find cheap Thai food and had to settle for western things instead.
I couldn’t believe how quiet all the attractions were in Pai! Most of the time I was totally alone at them, which was great. This is probably because it was low season.
Pai is the perfect place to take a break from Chiang Mai and its easy to see why so many people just never leave!
For reference, over my 4 full days in Pai, I spent a total of 5,362 THB (£119) which includes everything like private accommodation, food, bike rental, laundry service and every single can of fanta.
Best tours in the region
Thank you for reading this travel guide – I hope you found it helpful! Feel free to leave a comment below if you have any questions and I’ll get back to you as soon as possible 
Happy travelling!
HELPFUL RESOURCES FOR PLANNING YOUR TRIP
Accommodation: Booking.com, Hostelworld
Tours: GetYourGuide, Viator, Klook, TripAdvisor
Transport: 12Go, Omio, Trip.com, Rome2Rio
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